Caravan tyre blowouts are a major cause of accident amongst our touring caravan customers, with the biggest danger being that the blowout causes a loss of towing control and a much more serious road accident.

The average cost of a caravan tyre blowout claim was over £2000 in 2012, but thanks to more and more customers and manufacturers fitting safety devices such as Tyron bands and Al-Ko ATC anti-snaking devices, the number of incidents has actually fallen by a whopping 19.4% compared to 2011.

In order to combat the risk of a caravan blowout owners should replace their tyres regularly and maintain good tyre maintenance at all times, in order to preserve the safety and usability of the tyre and to decrease its risk of failure or blowout.

However even with good tyre maintenance undertaken accidents do happen, which is why it is a great idea to have a device such as Tyron bands fitted. In the event of a blowout Tyron bands increase the stability of the towing outfit and allow the driver to safely pull the vehicle over to the side of the road.

Tyron bands work by filling the well in all modern wheel hubs which is there to allow the tyre to be easily fitted, but which in the event of a blowout can cause the tyre to slip from the wheel hub, not only greatly affecting steering and driving stability but also increasing the likelihood of the wheel hub being damaged.

Caravan Guard offer a 5% discount for the fitting of Tyron bands as we believe they greatly increase a touring caravan’s stability in the event of a high speed blowout, meaning the driver can safely pull the vehicle over to the side of the road and avoid a more serious accident or incur further damage to the caravan.

For more information on Tyron bands and how they work with regards to touring caravans, visit http://www.tyron.co.uk/why_tyron_caravans.htm

Plus vote in our poll: Do you have Tyron bands fitted?

In a nutshell, without going into a frenzy of physics and chemistry, liquid gases like propane or butane contain a number of oily “evaporation” residues. These get into the liquid gas during the manufacture and distribution and can get trapped in the gas flow during use and clog up the valves and gas pressure regulator - which will cause a loss of gas pressure or even a failure of the gas regulator (as the diaphragm fails).

That doesn’t sound like too big a deal, but imagine the scene: It’s 8pm at night, cold and wet, you’re not hooked up to mains electrics and her indoors is fretting about having a cold shower in the morning when the gas stops working. You haven’t got a spare regulator tucked away in your locker (who has) so what do you do?

Could this scenario be avoided?

Yes it can, by fitting a gas filter which uses a replaceable filter cartridge in a metal housing that removes 99% of the oily residues before they clog up the pressure regulator. Usefully, there is a built-in “saturation” indicator which indicates when it needs replacing. The filter comes complete with a dedicated multi-tool which unscrews the cartridge housing and is used to install or remove the filter from the system. You need one filter for one regulator or if you have an auto-changeover system, you need two filters. (As pictured in the finished setup below).

This simple procedure can be done by your dealer, perhaps when you have your unit serviced, he’ll do a gas test upon completion too, or it can be done as a DIY project; you can do this is about 15 minutes, but you should then have it gas tested by a person qualified to do so, preferably at a dealer.

TOP TIP. Do not smoke or use a naked flame when installing this gas filter.

To install the gas filter:

1) Turn off the gas on the cylinder(s)

2) Remove the gas tail from the gas bottle

3) Disconnect the tail(s) from the regulator

4) Connect the filter to the regulator, mating the female connector to the male connector.

5) Connect the gas tail(s) to the filter.

6) Connect back to cylinder and turn on the gas.

The filter will need changing from time to time, depending upon your gas usage. This is a simple and quick procedure too; just unscrew the filter housing, wipe out any residue with kitchen roll, then unscrew the cartridge using the glove provided. Pull the glove off your hand using it to envelope the used cartridge. Install the new cartridge and tighten it by hand only, then screw the outer housing into place. Dispose of the glove and its contents in accordance with your local authorities’ environmental regulations.

We have found just one manufacturer of this filter unit, Truma, and you can buy it from your dealer or on the internet (do a price comparison as prices do vary widely) but I consider it to be good value and the sort of thing that earns a chap a few brownie points. “There’s plenty of water for a hot shower and a hair wash too darling. Would you like your back washed?”

For more information; www.trumauk.com

Liz King gives us her top tips for ensuring a successful and hassle free part exchange for those of you looking to change caravans.

The upcoming shows at Manchester, Glasgow and Birmingham give another opportunity to trade in, or up, and buy a new caravan, but how do you avoid an embarrassing encounter with a dealer. You may think that salesmen have it easy, but the tales they can tell would make your toes curl!

Many dealers make a big deal of the value of part exchange and that it is dependent on the condition of your caravan at the point of transaction and agreement to purchase.

Most part exchanges take place without the dealer seeing your old caravan until the day you pick up your new one.

Some dealers will ask you to mark on a diagram if there are any marks, scratches or damage inside or on the exterior and ask you to sign a ‘condition’ form. It is certainly worth been honest as the dealer may have to adjust the trade in value if the trade-in caravan is not as it was described originally. A dealer is not obliged to accept any caravan as part exchange.

Here’s our insider’s guide to making the most of the buying experience.

Top tips for readying your trade in ‘van

• If you are trading in your caravan, a service history is important and improves your chances of a good price.
• Be honest with your dealer; declare any damage or imperfections to your caravan during your discussion to purchase, not when you turn up to collect your new one.

Choosing your new caravan

• Make sure your vehicle is compatible with your new caravan.
• Remember, you are buying into a lifestyle, so have a wish list of things you want a new caravan to have, and make sure that your purchase is the right one for your planned use. A good dealer will think “rights” - the right caravan, at the right price, to the right person, at the right time.

Readying your old van for exchange

• Before taking your caravan to your dealer, clean it inside and out. Presentation makes a big difference at the point of transaction and if a dealer has to call in specialist cleaners that will reflect in the price on the day.
• Empty the toilet and clean it. One dealer told me he levies a fee of £60.00 if the toilet hasn’t been emptied. To spare your blushes, you could put the old cassette tank into your new caravan.
• Check and double check that you have removed all your personal possessions and your very personal possessions, if you get the drift, from the caravan.
• Return the caravan with the equipment it came with such as the microwave, TV, the clock, the radio and speakers; oh and the cooker. Yes really, I was told by a dealer that somebody took one out!
• Keep the insurance on the old caravan till you pick up the new one, then cancel or transfer the insurance.
• If you have an AL-KO wheel lock, then don’t forget it’s your responsibility to de-register and bring it with you, so that the new owner can register it.
• If you have an alarm with a code, remove the code.
• Remember your CRIS document, the owner’s handbook, and any instruction leaflets for any appliances.

Ensuring a quick get away with your new ‘van

• Check what forms of identity your dealer needs to complete your purchase. You’ll need your driving licence and vehicle log book if you need a new number plate.
• Sort out your payment method in advance; don’t rock up to collect your caravan expecting to organise finance at that point. Check if the dealer will accept a bank transfer. If you are paying by credit or debit card, check your credit limit. Cash payments are not always appreciated due to money laundering regulations.
• Turn up at the time you have agreed with your dealer for collection and allow time for the handover; many dealers allocate an hour or more for this.
• Book a caravan site near the dealership for one or two nights after purchase; some dealers have overnight facilities on site or know the local campsites to recommend. Some even include one or two nights as part of the purchase. It’s easier to sort out any issues on site than from several miles away by phone or e-mail.

Good luck in your hunt for your next caravan and wishing you an easy and hassle free part exchange process.

NB: The most common way to meet Caravan Guard’s minimum security requirement is to fit a wheelclamp and hitchlock. The wheelclamp must be of a proprietary make and cover at least one wheel nut and part of the tyre – apart from the Bulldog Euroclamp which is acceptable providing there is a locking wheel nut.

Ease of fitment

An important factor to consider when choosing a wheelclamp is just how easy it is to fit, if it is difficult then the chances are it will end up in the corner of the garage in a heap.

Some clamps require the use of tools to tighten them against the wheel whilst others that are manufactured to suit specific sized wheels can be simply positioned on the wheel and locked in place.

It is always a good idea to ask the caravan dealer for a demonstration of the clamp prior to making a purchase, this way you will be able to familiarise yourself with what is entailed in fitting the clamp, rather than having a nasty shock trying to fit it when its pouring down with rain.

Specification

Some of the basic wheelclamps use padlocks to secure them in place, whilst others have integral locks. Should you choose one that requires a padlock it should ideally be of good quality, hardened, and have a closed shackle to reduce the chance of it being bolt cropped.

If the wheelclamp has an integral lock then it should have a minimum of 10 pins and feature a central hardened pin to deter attempts to drill the centre of the lock. If the lock itself is not hardened then it should be installed in a hardened housing or shielded by other metal components so it cannot be easily sawn or broken off.

Attention should also be given to the arms that secure the clamp to the wheel. The material should be substantial in order to resist any attempts to lever the clamp from the wheel. Lighter gauge materials should also be case hardened to ensure they are capable of resisting attacks made with a hacksaw.

Once in place the clamp should fit closely to the wheel, both at the front and around the back, as the closer the fit the more difficult it is to remove.

Appearance

The appearance of a good quality wheelclamp should be enough to put off the most determined thief, make sure it is highly visible and always ensure you follow the manufacturer’s fitting instructions, a poorly fitted wheelclamp is an open invitation to a thief to steal your caravan.

Sold Secure

When purchasing a wheelclamp or hitchlock, look for the Sold Secure logo. Products that bear the Sold Secure logo have been attack tested by a Sold Secure technician. The technician will have imitated criminals by trying as hard as they can to break, hacksaw, lever, pick or using brute force wreck the security product being tested.

Sold Secure have close ties with a number of constabularies and insurers who provide regular information regarding the methods of theft and the tools utilised by criminals in their areas. This helps to maintain up to date specifications and means security products can be assessed in the light of the risk they are likely to encounter when in use. Each product that carries the Sold Secure logo has to be audited annually to ensure they are capable of withstanding the lastest attack methods. For an upto date list of Sold Secure approved products visit www.soldsecure.com

The above article was written by Bulldog Security Products Ltd, one of the UK’s leading manufacturers of caravan security devices and locks. For more information visit www.bulldogsecure.com.

Whilst it may be tempting to try and save a little bit of money in the run up to Christmas by cancelling your touring caravan insurance, the saving just does not outweigh the risks.

The fact is, caravans need to be insured all year round as claims can happen at any time. For example, our claims statistics show that 33% of caravan thefts happen over the winter months from December to March, showing how important it is to keep cover in place. And whilst it’s true that road and accidental damage claims are unlikely to occur whilst a caravan is in storage, other risks such as theft, vandalism, fire, flood and storm damage can all happen at any time.

Plus some risks, such as winter weather damage from frozen or burst pipes, are much more likely to happen over winter when the vehicle is in storage – and it’s for this reason that it’s vitally important caravan owners keep their units insured over winter.

Importance of servicing before the “hibernation” period

As part of preparing your caravan for winter storage we would recommend you have the vehicle serviced and cleaned before putting it away for winter. A clean, fully checked and serviced caravan or motorhome is much less likely to suffer problems over winter, particularly with things such as water ingress in the habitation area as a result of damaged seals – something which can be spotted and remedied at a pre-winter service.

Caravan covers, providing they are properly fitted breathable varieties, are also a good way to protect your ‘van over winter.

It’s also important to ensure you have the right security fitted to your caravan and that it is in full working order before the ‘van is put into storage for the winter.

Caravan Guard offer discounts for the fitting of many security devices, visit our caravan security page to find out more.

Providing the caravan has an Al-Ko chassis, replacing its conventional hitch with an Al-Ko AKS 3004 hitch/stabiliser is a simple job which shouldn’t take more than about 15-30 minutes. The AKS is available as a retro-fit item from any good caravan dealer at around £300 but prices can vary so do shop around.

The kit comes with full fitting instructions but you are likely to need a T55 Torx socket – costing around £7.50; socket spanner; torque wrench; hammer.

Having pulled the gaiter back to reveal the rear bolt, use the Torx socket to undo it. Then use a hammer to tap the steel pin included in the kit through the hole so that it pushes the bolt out. Failure to do this will result in the brake assembly disconnecting. Next remove the front bolt.

The original hitch can now be slid off the shaft. Included in the kit are a number of sleeves any of which can be used if necessary should the shaft size be different from the one the AKS is designed to fit.

Fit the front security bolt and then tap the other through the rear hole to push out and replace the pin.

Use the torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 90Nm (66lbft). Slide the gaiter back into position and the job is complete.

The hitch and stabiliser are such critical components in ensuring your caravan remains safe whilst being towed so if you are not fully confident of installing an AL-KO AKS Stabiliser you should consider getting the work done at a reputable caravan dealership or service centre.

Of course in addition to an Al-Ko AKS Stabiliser, for the best in caravan stability we’d recommend an electronic anti snaking device to be fitted. Many modern caravans are installed with such devices as standard or you can retro-fit them to older caravans. Plus Caravan Guard gives a 5% insurance discount for electronic anti snaking devices such as the AL-KO ATC or the BPW iDC.

A new law which came in to force on the 1st July makes it a legal requirement for all motorists, including those visiting from the UK, to carry at least two breathalyser kits in their vehicle when driving on French roads.

French Police have said they will be spot checking motorists coming into France via the Channel Tunnel and Ferry Ports and issuing spot fines for people who do not have two of the breathalysers on board (though there is a grace period until the end of November to allow people time to buy the devices).

The same rules apply to motorhome and caravan owners, though if you tow a small car with your motorhome then it may be a good idea to buy two sets of breathalysers and keep one in the car and one in the motorhome.

It is also important to remember that the French drink-driving limit is lower than the UK at 50mg of alcohol to 100ml of blood, 30mg less than over here, and that the breathalyser kit you purchase should be compatable with this limit. Digital breathalyser kits are reusable but more expensive so our advice is to opt for a set of at least two disposable breathalysers in order to adhere to the new law, and to wherever possible avoid drinking at all if you are intending to drive.

Ensure the breathalyser kits you buy are “NF Approved”, meaning they have been accredited by the French government as suitable for use and have an NF mark on the tube. They can be picked up for around £5 for a set of two breathalysers from a number of online retailers including Riversway Leisure.

Finally, don’t forget that under existing French law you must also carry a high visibility vest and a warning traingle for use in the event of a breakdown. The vest must be accessible in the front of your vehicle and used by anybody who stands outside the vehicle when broken down, so our advice would be to buy two and keep them in your glove compartment.

Over recent years we have had a large number of caravan insurance claims where a wheel has become detached and caused an accident. Such accidents often result in costly repairs and more significantly can be extremely dangerous to you and other road users. This article aims to highlight the importance of setting a caravan’s wheel nuts to the correct tension, and checking them regularly, in order to reduce the risk of an accident when towing your caravan.

It’s important that you check your wheel nuts for tightness regularly: we would advise you do this before every journey.

Caravan wheel nuts have a specific torque that they should be tightened to, which may differ from one manufacturer to the next. This figure should be in your caravan’s handbook.

Invest in a good torque wrench

In order to set you’re caravan’s wheel nuts to the correct tightness you need to use a torque wrench. Torque wrenches can be set to a specific torque and won’t let you tighten a wheel nut past a certain point no matter how much force you exert.

A good quality torque wrench can be picked up relatively cheaply, with the mechanical non-digital torque wrenches being more than adequate for use on caravan wheel nuts. Torque wrenches with a digital mechanism are generally more expensive and aren’t really necessary for the level of accuracy needed for a caravan. Most non-digital torque wrenches will either; bend at a hinge, make a loud clicking noise or have a pointer and gauge to let you know when the correct pressure has been applied.

Checking tightness down the line

There is some debate about the correct way to check the torque of your caravan wheel nuts once they have been tightened up and left alone for a while. Some manufacturers recommend a ‘re-torquing’ technique whereby wheel nuts are loosened slightly before being retightened to the correct level. This is due to something latent friction, which basically means you can’t get an accurate torque reading from a bolt which has already been tightened because the little bit of extra friction caused by it not moving will give an inaccurate reading. This is also why it is important you tighten up your bolts in a fluid motion in order to get an accurate torque reading.

That said, you can use a torque-wrench to see if a bolt has come loose because only a very slight drop in the torque tension of a bolt (say 5-10%) would be overcome by the latent friction. So whilst it’s true you can’t get a 100% accurate reading from simply checking the torque of a nut with a torque wrench set to the same setting it was when you first tightened the wheel, you can get a rough guide to if they have moved significantly.

Use the right products for the job

Also be careful about what products you use on your caravan wheel nuts. If your wheel nuts become stuck then don’t be tempted to spray WD40 or another lubricant anywhere near them, as whilst it might help in the short term it could have serious long term effects on the ability of the nuts to hold tension. Your only safe option is to simply be patient and use a wrench with good leverage to work the bolt loose.

If you have the opposite problem and want to help your bolts to stay securely in place for longer then you need to use a substance such as Loctite (speak to your local dealer or visit the Loctite website for advice on which variety is best to use) which will help to give the bolt’s thread extra grip but won’t permanently stick the bolt in place.

We wrote recently about keeping your caravan safe from theft, but it’s also important to look after the items inside your caravan, and avoid any opportunist thieves making off with your belongings.

As much as theft of caravans has fallen over the last ten years, theft of items from inside caravans has risen.

Caravan’s in storage

If your caravan is in storage, either at home or on a storage site facility, then the simplest way to keep your belongings safe are to remove them from the caravan altogether. We’d recommend removing any portable items of equipment such as televisions, stereos, DVD players and even the likes of aquarolls and awnings from the caravan and leaving the curtains open so it is immediately obvious to anybody looking in that there is nothing to steal.

Remember if your caravan is kept in storage for long periods of time then something that might be worth considering is a proactive 24 hour monitored tracking device system. Using sensors which detect movement, or via a link to an alarm system that triggers when the thieves break into a caravan, the tracking device can send an alert to the monitoring station so the wheels can be set in motion to get the police out to check over the caravan.

Look after your belongings on site

Caravan sites are generally very safe places for your belongings as there are plenty of people around who will usually keep an eye out for any suspicious looking characters. However it is still a good idea to take a few simple precautions to avoid being the target of an opportunistic thief.

Never leave high risk portable items such as cameras, laptops, mobile phones, mp3 players or iPads in plain view and unattended; and when leaving the caravan, even if only for a few minutes, make sure all valuables are out of view. Note such items are not covered on insurance policies for caravans.

It’s also worth remembering that whilst awnings offer added space they are very unsecure, and as such expensive items should not be left in them unattended. If you need to keep items of moderate value in the awning such as shoes, barbecues and garden furniture you may also want to consider purchasing a small portable alarm system which can be clipped inside the awning and will sound if anyone opens the zip and enters without disarming the system. These can be picked up relatively cheaply from caravan accessory shops.

Consider what type of park you are staying on

Some parks will have control barriers which make it very difficult for somebody to access the park uninvited, whereas smaller and more traditional parks will often have open access meaning it’s very easy for anybody to walk or drive onto the site.

If you are on a site which is easily accessible, or which has attractions such as beaches, woods or lakes that may be used by people other than those staying on the campsite, then you should take extra care to keep an eye on your belongings.

An audible alarm system can be useful on campsites. If triggered the noise should soon catch the attention of other campsite users and make the thieves scarper.

Visit our touring caravan security page for more information on protecting your caravan contents.

There are still many caravans being stolen because they don’t have alarms fitted as standard. So we thought it would be a good idea to show you how to fit one of the best over the counter alarms – the Protector from Keen Electronics.

The reason we rate it so highly is that in addition to having a number of excellent features it comes with a wiring diagram and fitting instructions which we believe even the most non-electrical person can follow. However, you will need some extra 12V cable, Scotchloks or equivalent – a 12V fuse holder and 2amp fuse –all available from any High Street motorist store.

Plus don’t forget that fitting an alarm to your caravan will earn you an annual 5% caravan insurance discount.

The advantages of the alarm are: After a short warm up period when first activated, the alarm will sound if an intruder enters the caravan; if a thief attempts to wind up the rear nearside steady; if he plugs caravan into the tow vehicle; if he unplugs the caravan from the tow vehicle; if he presses the foot brake in the tow vehicle; or if the leisure battery is disconnected.

Warning: Before commencing work disconnect the 230V mains and the caravan battery.

As you can see, the wiring diagram shows clearly where each wire connects to the 12 way terminal block on the flying lead which in turn simply plugs into the control box.

Start by deciding where the control box will be fitted. Under a seat near where the 12V cables enter the caravan from the battery compartment is ideal. Drill a hole down through the floor for the siren and screw it in position. To prevent creepy-crawlies from getting into the caravan, fit vent covers over the hole – obtainable from caravan dealers.

Fit the PIR where it can see both the caravan door and down the length of the caravan. The PIR cable has four wires but you only need three so cut the fourth – yellow in our case – off, and connect the remaining three – red, blue, and black – as per the wiring diagram. Route the cable to the 12 way terminal block securing it every few inches with dabs of Super Glue. Cut it to length and connect the wires to terminals 1, 4 and 5 as per the wiring diagram.

If you intend to use the awning light option, you should now trace the return wire from its on/off switch and cut it. Connect a length of wire to the return wire from the switch and run it to terminal 8. Then connect a length of wire to the remaining return to the chassis and run it to terminal 9.

Under the caravan, clean the end of the nearside steady screw with White Spirit and then use the adhesive pad and cable tie to attach the magnet to it. Next screw the bracket with the senor on it to the floor of the caravan about 2mm from the magnet. Connect the speaker cable supplied in the kit to the sensor and run it down the floor, using cable clips to support it, to a point under the front seat where you drill a 6mm dia hole. Feed the cable up into the caravan and connect the two leads to terminals 7 and 12. Polarity wasn’t important.

Trace the live and return leads from the battery to the consumer unit in the caravan. Cut the live lead so you can insert a blade fuse holder and a 2 amp fuse in it. Then connect the live to terminal 6. The return – negative – lead also needs cutting and rejoining, this time to terminal 3.

Under the caravan trace the brake pedal lead in the 7N or 13 pin wiring. It is usually has a red sheath. Take a spur off it up into the caravan and connect it to terminal 2. Finally, connect the siren leads to terminals 10 and 11 to complete the wiring.

Having plugged the flying lead into the control box, screw it to the floor, and reconnect the battery. The installation is now ready to test. Switch the control box on and once the system has activated you can test all the functions.

The Protector costs £177 including VAT from Keen Electronics Ltd., 202 Aylesbury Road, Bierton, Aylesbury, Bucks., HP22 5DT. Tel: 01296 423203. Fax: 01296 339104. Website: http://www.keenelectronics.co.uk/