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quoteWorried about damp in your caravan? It’s a concern for every caravanner but with regular checks, ventilation and curbing the condensation when using your ‘van you can make sure it’s an issue you’re always on top of.
In this video, caravanner Dan Trudgian explains what damp is, how to check for damp in your caravan, as well as looking at a damp meter and what the readings mean. We also have five top tips for reducing condensation and damp in your caravan.
The longer you water ingress or damp untreated, then the worse it will develop and potentially become very costly to remedy and repair.
Checking for damp in your caravan
When carrying out regular jobs, such as cleaning your caravan, use this as an opportunity to check for damp or water ingress by checking seals and sealant, particularly around windows, seals, locker doors, etc. Check all sealant for any signs of damage, such as cracking or peeling. Also look for any knocks, cracks or areas such as aerial points or where other bits of equipment that might have been added to the caravan to check that things like drill holes have been properly sealed.
Inside the caravan, use your nose and check the upholstery for any musty smells. Also run your hand around the wall boards to make sure there’s no dimpling and that it doesn’t feel wet or spongy to touch. Also look for any signs of discolouration on the walls, again particularly around windows and in the lockers. If the floor feels spongy or even creaky, this could be a sign of damp or water ingress.
If you’re into gadgets then you can invest in a damp meter to find out how much moisture is in your caravan. It will give a percentage scale of how much moisture there is in the areas of your caravan touched by the meter’s prongs.
If you are worried about damp levels, make sure you get it checked out at by a professional at your local dealership, caravan service centre or by a mobile engineer, so they can give it a thorough inspection.
Tips for reducing the risk of damp in your caravan
- Use your caravan
Use your caravan as often as you can and keep it well ventilated, especially in colder months - Curb condensation
Limit condensation by not drying wet clothes in your caravan. If you have a build up of condensation after cooking, taking showers or in the mornings, open windows and skylights. - Wipe down walls
Use a clean micro fibre cloth to wipe down walls and windows if you get a build-up of condensation. - Air the caravan
Open all locker doors and if possible remove cushions and mattresses when leaving your caravan for long periods. - Consider moisture traps
Dehumidifier crystals or even cat litter can help soak up any excess moisture. Use moisture traps where air doesn’t circulate as much.
For more tips on spotting and preventing damp in your caravan see our earlier article. And remember damage caused by damp is not covered by your caravan insurance with Caravan Guard, which is why it’s important to make sure it’s serviced annually at an NCC approved caravan dealership or workshop. They can carry out a full damp inspection and report, making sure any water ingress or damp issues are quickly spotted and treated.
Comments are good. Have swift challenger 480 2016 se. damp reading not that high thanks to your meter readings put mind at rest, been sold a damp van. However on checking van see little holes it seems pervious owner as had issues not mentioned. I will use advice leave heat on low, have covered van roof, have it resealed trust it prevents water ingress that’s what damp is? So keep an eye on your vans etc. let you know how it works out when I have funds to have it re chalked, take advice mentioned on this forum site thank you. ya all have good day now happy caravanning.
Very useful video but bit late for me! Just picked up my Swift Conqueror having had some very expensive damp repairs done around the toilet area. I was advised by the gentleman who did the repairs and has many years of experience, that I should never fill the Thetford Cassette flush tank with too much water, even when on site. I never travel with very much in this tank. It seems that there is an ‘O’ ring joint which often lets water through. He has come across this problem time and time again. The problem, of course, is you can never be certain just how much flush water is in this tank – you know if it is empty or if it is full! A built in gauge would have been useful. Any DIY measuring ideas would be useful. Thank you
In 2004 I bought a two year old Lunar Lexon Twin axle. It came with a one year warranty from the caravan sales. No sooner the warranty run out I detected damp lots of it.I took it for repair to a caravan repair specialist cost me £1800. they had the van forever and still didn’t get it right it took several visits for that.I have found damp twice since then and repaired it myself.When I removed the awning rail an absolute nightmare to separate it from the sealant, I found that there was an area where there was no sealant causing the leak.Working in a local authority I asked the supplier of the sealant used about it’s effective life and he told me it should never fail as this same sealant is used to hold together speedboats and luxury yachts.
So damp check regularly particularly any area where something is fixed to the body, Awning Rail.Sealing strips,Doors and windows Etc.
Colin says, “So as the saying goes you get what you pay for”, which is often true – but don’t discount the Adria range which is well known for build quality, even at a relatively ‘cheap by comparison’ price! Mine is excellent too.
Some excellent tips and information, but in this day and age, we should never have to suffer a damp problem if the caravans were designed and built properly in the first place. When was the last time a new car had a “damp” problem? The manufacturers fill the vans with all the latest bling, but seem to cut corners on simple design. We seem to accept that all our vans will leak at sometime in their life, some sooner than others, but it should NEVER happen in the first place.
There generally are too many vent holes for gas drop etc to make it worthwhile using the moisture absorbing crystals, its like trying to de-humidify the Northern Hemisphere.
Allowing air to circulate is the best option if you cannot use an electric heater to keep the internal temperature slightly elevated, its the change in temperature along with the dew point of moist air which causes condensation issues.
Moisture ingress most often due to shoddy assembly practises is the real issue, getting the manufacturers to address that aspect is what the Clubs and magazines should be doing…..
some good advice, points, etc, but also some simple ones missed,touching the rubbers on windows or doors will give a false reading, checking the internal seam joints is a good place to look and maybe remembering to keep your floor air flows clear.
Thanks for the extra tips Colin
I leave my caravan connected to mains power supply over winter to keep the battery on full charge, I also set the thermostat to switch the electric heater on when temperature within caravan drops to about 5deg I move all upholstery away from the interior walls for better air circulation will these precaution help prevent condensation or will it contribute to it, the caravan is also covered with a pro-cover.
I would emphasise that a damp meter is essential. By the time you smell, feel or see damp it is likely that severe damage has already occurred. For about £15 it could be the best investment you will ever make.
It’s also important to check around water pipework.
Damp measurements will often be higher around floor level than higher up simply because colder moist air will tend to sink.
As mentioned in a reply above less than 15% should be ok
The above advice for damp is good, however something that has not been mentioned, is what caravan are you dealing with, the better the build quality the more likely you are not to suffer damp. I have an–hymer Nova caravan 2002 build that have six-year warranty when new, I have had this caravan approximately eight years and still no damp. So as the saying goes you get what you pay for.
I found it very helpful and the responses. I cover my caravan over the winter with a breathable cover and also use a dehumidifier every month overnight and this has helped to keep the caravan dry and condensation levels low.
I use a non-invasive inductive moisture meter. It is very easy to use and does not have probes therefore no holes in fabric of caravan wall. It measures the average damp down to 20mm. I always run the meter over the internal surface before it is serviced and tell the engineer to check any areas that have higher readings. Only problem is if wiring or metal is within the caravan wall as the meter, being inductive, will give a 100% reading. My meter cost £28. Well worth the money for the easy of use.
I also use a small electric dehumidifier which draws 1 litre of water a week from the ambient air, and keeps the inside of the caravan bone dry including fabrics.
Dehumidified water is used on orchids and in steam iron!!
Thanks for sharing your tips Richard.
Very interesting and valuable information given on how to check for dampness in caravans. However, on newer caravans the wall / ceiling boarding can be of honeycomb construction and should not be pierced by using the prongs of a moisture meter. Therefore it is advisable to seek dealers advice on how to carry out dampness checks.
Is there a problem using a dehumidifier in the caravan during winter months ie is it cloaking any dampness problems.
A dehumidifier will help to soak up any excess moisture in the air.
Useful
You do not give meter readings to show what is a good reading and what is a bad reading.
Would be useful.
Regards,
John leonard.
Hopefully the chart will have helped John. If you’re getting a reading of between 15 and 20% then you might want to investigate further and check again in a few months. A reading of between 20 and 24% warrants further investigation, particularly around that area. Between 30 and 35 % there’s probably water ingress and you’re going to need to get it checked out.
Very used full good comements
Very good tips. Thank you.